BADdeck

Day 38

We have to check out by 11 am today. The bike is loaded easily by then, so we spend a little time this morning planning our next move. It's the weekend now, plus Monday is “Natal Day” up here, a national holiday (I think) that has something to do with the Navy (I think). Campgrounds are booking up quick, so we have to make a reservation, which we hate to do. We decide to journey down south, off Cape Breton, to Baddeck on the Bras d'Or Lake.

This day's ride completes the Cabot Trail loop for us. This aspect of the trail is really beautiful, by far my preference to the west side of the island; stunning views of the sea, the cliffs and the little villages along the way. Riding through Ingonish, we pass a harbor where we see La Mariner V docked. We pulled in and gave Louis and Carmen a wave before getting back on the road.

We reach Bras d'Or in no time. This body of water, pronounced like the end of the word Labrador, is actually ocean, not a lake. The eastern edge of this lake is more of an island. The “lake” is filled with sailboats gliding around like swans in a pond in front of a castle. We stop in the little town of Baddeck for lunch: chowder and a Reuben. We head down the road to find the campground, which brags that it is the only campground right on the lake. We pull in, and at first glance it is a field with a billion campers. After we check in, and get directed to our “campsite”, we see that it is, indeed, a big field. No trees, no space between campsites, total exposure. We hate it. Before we unpack, we head down to the lake, hoping that this is where the redeeming qualities of this place will be, but no. The “lakefront” is less appealing than a boat ramp. The water is beautiful, clear and cold, but the lakefront itself isn't great. If you ask me, The Bras d'Or Lake Campground is best avoided.

We decide to buy a bag of ice, even though we will use only a fraction of it, and get started on our bottle of Wiser's. The only shade is in the community room, which is beside the freezer, so this seems like the best idea. We are productive, though. We book our ferry from Digby to St. John, New Brunwick. Since this ferry leaves at 8 am, we book a B&B in Digby for the night before. We also book 2 nights in Dartmouth/Halifax beginning tomorrow. I've had it with these campgrounds. I'm dying for some privacy, and this campground-in-a-field has sent me over the edge. I want a hotel room, pronto.

We spend the rest of the evening in the Adirondack chairs beside the lake. We practice seeing the “half full” aspect of this campground: the showers are free, these chairs on the waterfront are nice. Also, there aren't many mosquitoes and, as is the case in most of the Maritimes, there are fresh raspberries everywhere. We go to bed early, about 4 feet away from our neighbors to the left, and about 4 feet away from our neighbors to the right. I hope the Pirate snores his face off tonight.